PAN•chic•u•al
In this issue we are introducing a newer concept, perhaps misunderstood and caught up in the mix of hot topics of today such as sexual orientation and lifestyle choices. That concept is genderless clothing, though I would like to simply call them “clothes.” Humans have been wearing them for thousands of years, but because of the time we’re living in, this category of clothing is getting more attention.
Agree or disagree, it’s still a form of expressing oneself artistically and experimenting with fashion—stepping outside the box and adapting to change. I’m almost certain that the first woman to really rock men’s suiting came under some serious fire and lots of criticism simply because it’s men’s suiting and it probably looked silly at the time. You also have to consider boyfriend jeans, boyfriend t-shirts, sneakers, blazers—all borrowed from the boys, and all now staples in every true fashion guru’s closet.
I remember studying such adaptations in my fashion history class—maybe one of my favorite undergrad classes. From a world war or a new social movement such as women’s rights all the way to a major change in transportation methods, fashion was always sent into a shift by current events. Which brings us to today, in the year 2016—what isn’t happening? The lines with race, gender, orientation, violence—everything is being crossed, downgraded, upgraded, blended, overlooked, and in some cases, overstepped and misunderstood. So we can’t be surprised that boundaries are being tested with art and design as well, which is the result of a major change in the world.
A most recent controversial spread featured Jaden Smith in the new ad campaign for the SS16 Louis Vuitton women’s collection. It was huge (“YUGGGGGGE!”) because it’s Jaden Smith, but even bigger because he’s in a skirt, and not just for any brand, but for Louis Vuitton. To top it off, in the Western Hemisphere, men simply “don’t” wear skirts without a religious or cultural purpose. What did Jaden’s fashion choice receive? Major backlash. The truth is, people are most certainly entitled to their opinions, and I’m sure the Smiths knew without question that there would be incredible criticism of their parenting and Jaden’s decision-making and sexuality. But what I believe is simply this: it was a new art form, an opportunity from one of the oldest, most respected luxury designers on the globe to do something different and make a statement.
Isn’t this what art is for? Making statements, stirring controversy, creating conversation, understanding differences—the list is endless. Seeing men and women together in non-gender-defining clothing—but without defining sexual orientation—can be confusing and disturbing to some. To me, it’s simply thinking and creating outside the box—redefining what we can wear and the limits of how we can express ourselves with our clothes, just as it’s always happened, time and time again before.
The model is wearing:
ZIQING ZHOU
Spring 2016/2017 A/W Collection, Menswear
London College of Fashion (LCF) 2016MA
Menswear
University of the Arts, London
Interesting observations of how fashion reflects society….and our response to that.
Bravo 2mag! This is a topic that is virtually and socially taking the fashion industry by storm! As a society, we love to categorize and label everything. We determine what and who goes where by appearance. We often determine “right” versus “wrong” through appearance. Is it time to remove the identity labels when it comes to fashion??? Hummmm!
I’ve never been one daring enough to try something different in regards to fashion. I love seeing other people creating their own style and living within their own rules. Fashion is creativity expressed through clothing. Great article. Definitely look forward to opening up my closet and trying different things.